We ferried over to Jost Van Dyke, British Virgin Islands (Population ~300), home of both the jaw-dropping, white sand gem of a beach on White Bay and also of the famous Soggy Dollar Bar. While St. John had always been on my must-go list, JVD snuck onto it via different means. Our home has a small dock house by a lake that the previous owners had named the Soggy Dollar. Curiosity caused me to search for and then fall in love with beauty of JVD and, of course, I just had to visit the original Soggy Dollar.
And so early on a Tuesday morning we pulled up to the small BVI customs office in Great Harbour, just up and back down a sizable hill from White Bay. Most of the other visitors on the boat were day-trippers from the USVI, there to hop around from the Soggy Dollar to the also-famous Foxy’s in Great Harbour and then ferry back later in the day. We were there with our big suitcases in hand, booked for three nights at White Bay Villas in our cottage with an absolutely stunning view over White Bay. This was finally our chance to relax.
WBV graciously allowed us to check in early, so after settling in an soaking up the view, we made the “hike” down to White Bay, passing Ivan’s Stress Free – which would soon become our evening spot – en route. The white sand was some of the softest I’ve set foot on, and after a bit of a rocky climb between beaches, we found ourselves in front of a true island destination, the Soggy Dollar; “A Sunny Place for Shady People.”
It seems like shady people know how to have a fantastic time, which we did on more than one day. After renting a car (a Suzuki Jimmy, the cutest fun lil’ 4wd machine) and driving the island, I realized what a true establishment the Soggy Dollar has become. The island is so small, easily traversed in our eight-hour rental, so the fact that Soggy became that well-known from boaters and day-trippers is rather unlikely and remarkable. We rattled across unpaved sections of steep hills, winding all the way up to overlook White Bay and beyond until the pitch pitched wayyy up and the road surface looked loose, at which point I suggested that we turn around.
And now it was time to explore. I’ve overdone this post (again), so let me summarize:
I’ve overdone this post (again), so let me summarize:
- Brunch at the Tipsy Shark in Great Harbour — so tranquil and with such a great view it was therapeutic.
- Trekking to the Bubbly Pool — absolutely worth it but you’ll get what the tide delivers. We lucked out to a perfect inflow of water into the semi-protected rocky hot tub, albeit with a rain shower or two. Mind your delicate feet.
- Rum Punch at Foxy’s Taboo – it was early, so it was quiet besides those wicked Christmas Winds from the east, which pushed us off sooner than planned.
- Back over to great harbour, to Foxy’s Tamarind. You must. It was early, but the party was already underway and a shot randomly showed up in front of us. Banners, flags, signs from every sports team imaginable dangled in the roof above us and steel drums pattered in the background.
- Last but not least, to which I have previously mentioned: Ivan’s Stress Free Bar. Things slow down here vs. the Soggy Dollar, and the food is as solid as the White Bay sunset view. Above all, we absorbed the conversation with the bartenders, owner and other patrons, as well as the planned and impromptu music, including a collaboration between a steel drum artist and a visitor who packed his guitar.
If life allows, and I hope it will, we’ll be back to JVD with all of our shady friends and fam along with us.
Travel Notch 